Custom Hand Made Jewellery

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Anatomy of a Ring

  • Anatomy of a ring

 

There’s a lot of jewellery lingo that I feel everyone should know. I not only think it is interesting, its useful if you ever want to get a custom piece made. So here’s the rundown of vocab that will help you when discussing your jewellery. Be that with your mates, or during the design process of a new ring. Let’s start with a ring! 

 

Ring break down

Below is a short break down of the different words used to describe parts of a ring. 

Claw arrangement:

The main focus of a ring with a gemstone would be the setting. The setting is the part of the ring that keeps the gem in place. There are different positions and shapes of the claws or bezels that can be used. When choosing which look you want, it primarily comes down to your personal preference and aesthetic, but certain settings will do different things. 

Claws: lets more light in.

The number of claws: the more there are,  the more secure the gem will be.

Bezel: lets less light in but is the most secure. Surrounds entire stone. 

But, for me, it ultimately comes down to the look you like best. A good jeweller will make sure that any setting chosen will be secure. 

Gallery vs closed bezel

Again, this comes down to personal preference. Often I will make a ring with a closed bezel claw setting if the gem is shallow. It allows for the setting to be as low as possible (no getting your ring caught on anything, yay!). But a gallery is always an elegant and easy way to allow the maximum amount of light to brighten up your gem. 

Side view 

There are many different designs for the side view of your ring, but here i will discuss two. The cathedral and traditional. 

The cathedral design includes a split in the shank that sweeps up to meet mid way on the setting of the ring. 

The traditional look refers to the setting coming directly out from the shank with the band only being connected at the base of the setting. 

 

Shank types

The shank/band is the part of the ring that goes around your finger. This can have different profiles, and again comes down to personal preference. Of course the shank needs to be strong enough to last and not bend out of shape, but the shape of its profile is based purely on aesthetics.

 

And that’s the lesson done! I’m sure there are probably more terms that I could add, but these are the basics that you’d need to know.

Have any questions? Don’t hesitate to get in touch!

 

Callen xx

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Engagement Ring Size Guide

Method 1

Secret Borrow

Borrow a ring they wear on their left ring finger and get it sized

Method 2

Wrap and measure

Wrap a piece of string/paper. Mark it, and measure the length mm

Note: method 2 is not always reliable as fingers also shrink or grow depending on the temperature.

Ring SizeDiameter (mm)Circumference (mm)
F13.943.8
G14.345.0
H14.746.2
I15.147.5
J15.548.8
K15.950.0
L16.351.2
M16.752.5
N17.153.8
O17.555.0
P17.956.2
Q18.357.5
R18.758.8
S19.160.0
T19.561.3
U19.962.5
V20.363.7
W20.765.0
X21.066.0
Y21.567.5
Z67.568.7

Engagement Ring Metal Guide

9CT gold

More affordable and slightly harder, making it more resistant to scratches. A great everyday option.

18CT gold

Richer colour and higher purity (75% gold), giving it a more luxurious feel. Slightly softer but more prestigious.

Yellow gold

The classic, warm tone. Timeless and traditional.

Rose gold

A Romantic, warm pink tone created by mixing gold with copper. Flattering on most skin tones.

White gold

A cool, silvery tone created by mixing gold with white metals and plated with rhodium for a bright finish. Requires replating every few years.

Platinum

The most durable and hypoallergenic option. Heavier than gold with a cool, bright finish. The most premium choice.

Sterling silver

The most affordable option, best suited to fashion pieces rather than everyday fine jewellery as it tarnishes over time.

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